It’s important for me to open this by saying I am obsessed with Schiaparelli.
Embarrassingly, I once tried to upcycle a Schiaparelli dress for the 2022 British Vogue Christmas party that in hindsight was a HR disaster. At least it was a talking point on the dance floor, eh?
So when the V&A sent me a press invite (gotta use those journo privileges) to see it earlier this week before today’s opening, I leaped at the opportunity.
The exhibition focuses on two points in the brand’s history.
It takes you through the history of the brand from a 23-year-old Elsa Schiaparelli’s beginnings, to business on Place Vendôme with over 400 staff just five years later and Roseberry’s most iconic pieces.
What amazed me is that the spirit of Elsa’s work translates through time. It doesn’t get lost: it maintains the circus, the shape and the sting (pun intended—there are lobster and scorpion designs) over the decades.
But not all that glitters is comfortable to sit down in.
As I passed a particular skeleton gown, there was a sudden flashback to a certain Dupa Lipa at the Golden Globes in 2024, struggling to sit down in her dress. While her comment section is full of praise for how she handled it, comment sections on the reposts were… different.
“Shame on the designer,” one commenter said. “Designing a dress that isn’t functional WTF.”
“Most couldn’t,” said another. “At least she kept her sense of humour.”
Maybe it’s leaning into the avant-garde side of the archive for inspiration. It’s beautiful, ridiculous, and beautifully ridiculous. There’s a reason that nature inspires the fashion house’s clothes. I personally think that we’re meant to do both: staring in awe and wonder, and laughing at what we don’t understand. Because one day, we’ll get it.
Other than that, you simply can’t hate on Maison Schiaparelli.
It was ahead of its time and it continues to be through intricate motifs, metals that mimic nature and eyes—lots of eyes—making sure you don’t try anything slick.
If the max brownie points I award is 100, I’m giving the exhibition a solid 80 brownie points.
brownie pts. 